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Thread: Chase wall for plumbing
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03-06-2013, 08:36 AM #1
Chase wall for plumbing
Masonry building, modeled w/HD 10Pro. Plumbing needs to be in chase wall. Wall is double 2X4 w/3"centered chase. When I attach chase wall to CMU wall, the attachment changes the detail. As long as the framing does not attach the CMU corner appears in plan as it would be built in reality. I know I can do an enlarged "CAD" detail showing the proper connection, however; I want to be sure the Mason (who will be on his own supervision) has a good understanding that the "normal" masonry details apply, and I'd rather "all" the plan details agree. I do plan on doing a detail sheet of course, sometimes the details get lost.
I couldn't find a fix.
Sketches attached.BB Boy (Bob E)
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03-06-2013, 08:55 AM #2
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03-06-2013, 09:17 AM #3
I am working on that, however; it looks muddled in plan view. I'll figure that out and post something later.
Thanks, Kat.BB Boy (Bob E)
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03-06-2013, 10:51 AM #4
Kat-Still looks muddled/jumbled w/CAD over. I looked in the helps concerning adjusting lines weights to see if that would help, couldn't find anything to do w/adjusting CAD line weights. Looked on the forum; the only thread I found looked like it was from 2009 and didn't look like anyone replied. Don't think it will do any good to send to tech. support as the last several items I needed help w/ an issue; the only reply I got back was "can't reproduce" the same issue.
BB Boy (Bob E)
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03-06-2013, 12:30 PM #5
I don't think they still offer free support on our old version 10s anymore.
Maybe you could take a screenshot of how you want it to look (when they aren't connected), crop it down so you see just the corner, and reimport the image to mask over that area when the walls are connected?Kat >^..^<
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03-06-2013, 01:06 PM #6
BBB,
I am not sure what is still "muddled" exactly, can you explain more please? If you want it "perfect" in terms of alignment, you will need to zoom in and MAKE the alignment perfect manually (unless, I have missed your point of course).
Are those two, separate "Interior 4" walls or is what I am seeing a custom wall type you made?
DJP
David Jefferson Potter
Chief Architect® Teacher, Tutor, Draftsman, Author of "Basic Manual Roof Editing" and Problem Solver
Chief Premier 7-16, Home Designer 7-2014 All Titles
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03-06-2013, 06:01 PM #7
Consider creating a custom wall type with a gap between framing members rather than use two individual walls (the sheetrock or gypsum board between them is not useful). And then consider applying the "wall butts other walls" option on the General tab in the Wall Specification dialog.
Hope this helps.Home Designer Pro 8
Home Designer Pro 10
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03-07-2013, 08:12 AM #8
DJP/Elovia-I will give it try. David, I wasn't up to speed on making "custom wall types" so yes, it was (2) interior wall's w/a gap for the actual chase that needs to be 3". Elovia when I figure out how to make the custom wall maybe that will change the effects.
I hadn't thought about the "wall abuts other walls" so that is on my radar screen.
A new development however; is that I noticed every time I close the plan and later reopen to work on it, the interior walls keep attaching to different surface points to the chase.
In order to stop that, I played around with the wall break tool, and I added break wall points now they stay where I draw them, but after doing that, when I did an elevation camera, now my "Drywall" framed wall looks like CMU even though the floor plan shows framed chase walls not CMU.
I opened the wall type dialogue (for that wall) and checked and as you can see it is modeled as 4" framed w/ drywall. Previously when I did the elevation camera of that wall it displayed as drywall.
It won't matter to the people (volunteers) building it as long as the plan shows it's drywall, and that problem may fix itself once I do the custom wall / wall abuts other walls, I dont' know.BB Boy (Bob E)
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“ The nicest thing about the future is that it always starts tomorrow”
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03-07-2013, 08:16 AM #9
Sorry David, I forgot to answer your specific question; yes, I have enlarged the detail and made sure the alignment is "perfect". It kept snapping back, so I did a contolled move and it stayed. The muddle look is where the yellow part of the fraiming shows up as overlapping into one wall. The funny thing is one time in plan it may look like the entire corner of the framed wall is lapping half-way into the CMU, the next time I open it, looks like the wall laps part-way into the corner. I assume that is video display and not the sortware.
BB Boy (Bob E)
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“ The nicest thing about the future is that it always starts tomorrow”
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03-07-2013, 09:15 AM #10
As Elovia suggested, I created a "custom" wall type (11" chase); defined materials, fill stype etc., saved. I also check the helps, found and old thread about created a new wall type-and one responder said save a template, then you can copy and paste in each new plan when you want to use it again, so I also tried that. But pro 10 won't let you copy and paste or at least it wouldn't let me. I did save the wall type in my current plan, drew the chase wall, open the wall dialogue, defined and my "new" wall type was there. I did the buts wall, and it worked.
Now, new issue. Since I created the new wall type, my existing interior walls now want to snap to the other side of the chase (which would not be normal construction practice). I played around with the wall break, the buts wall, control drag, and even tried changing the "snap behavior" but no dice. So, I ready for another suggestion on how to get the interior walls to "butt" the interior of the room side of the chase.BB Boy (Bob E)
Home Designer Pro 10
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“ The nicest thing about the future is that it always starts tomorrow”
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03-07-2013, 09:29 AM #11
BBB,
I just finished a You Tube Video on the subject of your post, it will be formatted and uploaded within an hour or so, I hope you and others find it useful. I will post a link when it is done.
DJP
David Jefferson Potter
Chief Architect® Teacher, Tutor, Draftsman, Author of "Basic Manual Roof Editing" and Problem Solver
Chief Premier 7-16, Home Designer 7-2014 All Titles
Win7 Ultimate x64 & XP Pro x32 500 gb Samsung SSD
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T, 8Gb DDR3 RAM, PNY 760 GTX
3101 Shoreline Drive #2118, Austin, Texas 78728-6929
Office Phone:512-518-3161
Main E mail: david@djpdesigns.net
Web Site:http://djpdesigns.net
My You Tube Channel Follow me on Facebook
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03-07-2013, 09:59 AM #12
Thanks David, as always you "EXPERT" help is so appreciated.
BB Boy (Bob E)
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Nashville-TN
“ The nicest thing about the future is that it always starts tomorrow”
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03-07-2013, 10:05 AM #13
Here is the link to my (your) video, hope you find it useful:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omvTP4JO0aw
DJP
Give it a few more moments to finish formatting for web viewing please
David Jefferson Potter
Chief Architect® Teacher, Tutor, Draftsman, Author of "Basic Manual Roof Editing" and Problem Solver
Chief Premier 7-16, Home Designer 7-2014 All Titles
Win7 Ultimate x64 & XP Pro x32 500 gb Samsung SSD
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T, 8Gb DDR3 RAM, PNY 760 GTX
3101 Shoreline Drive #2118, Austin, Texas 78728-6929
Office Phone:512-518-3161
Main E mail: david@djpdesigns.net
Web Site:http://djpdesigns.net
My You Tube Channel Follow me on Facebook
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03-07-2013, 12:24 PM #14
The video has helpful info.
I did fix the issue with the exterior CMU wall corner connection with the interior framed stud/drywall plumbing chase. Creating a "custom" wall and defining each layer as Elovia suggested did the trick.
The issue with the CMU showing up in camera view although the plan showed drywall is fixed, but I did check all the settings etc., you mentioned in your video and the CMU was NOT selected as the finish material. It is fixed now, after using the custom wall type, I pulled a camera view and it shows the drywall.
As you can see in the attached sketches, the interior perpendicular walls of the Elec and HVAC closets don't stop at the chase wall, but continue all the way through and if you notice the screen shot of the camera view now CMU is showing penetrating the drywall finish.
I have tried the help article # 33 "How to Adjust Wall Connections" that didn't change a thing. I have tried checking and unchecking wall "butts" other wall, no luch there. I open the preferences and changed the "snap" dimenstion which did nothing to fix the issue. I've tried a controlled drag pulling the end of the CMU wall back, then slowly draging it back into place and it still snaps all the way through. Any suggestions there? I've attached caputures of the floor plan so you can see the relation ship of each.Last edited by BB boy; 03-07-2013 at 12:28 PM.
BB Boy (Bob E)
Home Designer Pro 10
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“ The nicest thing about the future is that it always starts tomorrow”
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03-07-2013, 06:22 PM #15
Note that when you created your custom wall type, one of the layers is designated as the "main layer". Also note that the layers are displayed with respect to the exterior surface (i.e., the exterior surface is at the top of the stack of layers displayed).
So ... what I'm about to say may be confusing but I'll give it a try anyway. All walls have an interior and exterior surface depending on how they're drawn. This is true even for interior walls that we generally understand to have an interior surface on each side. In the Preferences dialog, under Edit and in the Selection area, there should be a check box for "(S)tart and (E)nd Indicators". If you check that option, accept the change, and then select a wall in plan view, the selected wall will show the starting and ending points of that wall, thus indicating the point from which and the direction that the wall was drawn. In general, going from Start to End, the software's recognized interior surface will be on the right-hand side. This image should help visualize the parameters I described:
OK ... that said, it is possible that your main layer is on the opposite side of the custom double wall type that you created because of the direction that you drew it. Other walls connecting into your custom wall type will try to connect to the main layer, so that behavior is expected. In your custom wall type, it appears you've set the main layer as the inner of the two "walls". Check to make sure the main layer is actually where you want it to be based on the (S)tart and (E)nd points of the wall you drew.
Hope this helps.Last edited by Elovia; 03-07-2013 at 06:24 PM.
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