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09-29-2013, 05:47 AM #1Registered User
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How to make a level soffit on a roof?
I'm new to working with my Home Designer Architectural, and am trying to figure out how to make the soffit of the roof parallel to the ground, rather than to the top of the roof. Also, how to change the thickness of the roof, or height of the roof, above the wall. Most roofs these days are made with trusses, which are basically double triangles, so the thickness at the wall is much higher than the height at the fascia.
I'm certainly hoping that I don't need the Pro version for this (which I see from the videos does have a lot more roof options), as this is pretty basic.
Also, how do I eliminate the gutters, which seem to be automatically placed?
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09-29-2013, 06:07 AM #2
I am not sure exactly what you mean yet, except for the gutters which can be turned on and off by way of "Display Options" (checked to show or un-checked to not show), you can also just not build them at all by way of the Build Roof Dialog (check box for gutters) but this command has no effect after roofs are built (in is not retroactive).
The part I do not yet understand is the roof parallel to the ground (kinda depends on the ground if it is parallel to the roof or not right?)
Perhaps you are talking about "Boxed Eaves"? That boxes in the eaves so that they are flat instead of slanted like the roof, if that what you mean then that is a Check Box command in the Build Roof Dialog when you build roofs. If that command is not checked you get slanted eaves and when checked you get boxed eaves, try it and see please if that is what you want.
DJP
David Jefferson Potter
Chief Architect® Teacher, Tutor, Draftsman, Author of "Basic Manual Roof Editing" and Problem Solver
Chief Premier 7-16, Home Designer 7-2014 All Titles
Win7 Ultimate x64 & XP Pro x32 500 gb Samsung SSD
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T, 8Gb DDR3 RAM, PNY 760 GTX
3101 Shoreline Drive #2118, Austin, Texas 78728-6929
Office Phone:512-518-3161
Main E mail: david@djpdesigns.net
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09-29-2013, 08:23 AM #3Registered User
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Yes, I now see that I can un-check them in the Display Options. As to not building them that way, my Build Roof Dialog has nothing for gutters, or for that matter, much else, for roofs. The Pro version ($500) has them, but my $200 Architectural version does not. Which is pretty poor; previous $50 and up design programs I've used had many more options for roofs.
The part I do not yet understand is the roof parallel to the ground (kinda depends on the ground if it is parallel to the roof or not right?)
Perhaps you are talking about "Boxed Eaves"? That boxes in the eaves so that they are flat instead of slanted like the roof, if that what you mean then that is a Check Box command in the Build Roof Dialog when you build roofs. If that command is not checked you get slanted eaves and when checked you get boxed eaves, try it and see please if that is what you want.
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09-29-2013, 08:39 AM #4Registered User
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Hmmmm... I don't seem to be able to add boxed eves, either. I've deleted my existing roof (just to start over), then went to Build Roof, which builds a Gable roof (because I'd changed it that way previously? There is no selection in Build Roof). Then I went to the gable wall, click on the extended wall above the lower roof line, and check Auto Roof Return. After OK, it blinks a couple times, and redraws without any roof return or boxed eve, when using the default values. I've tried making a Full return, and nothing.
Is my roof messed up or something?
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09-29-2013, 08:49 AM #5Registered User
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Okay, it appears I was selecting the outside wall from the perspective view rather than the plan view. Selecting it in Plan view results in being able to add the boxed eves. And selecting Flat rather than Sloping does make the bottom of the soffit parallel with the ground, which I want. It still doesn't change the overhang of the non-gable sides though; they remain parallel with the roof top, rather than the ground. So that's the part I'm still missing, assuming it's possible.
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09-29-2013, 09:00 AM #6Registered User
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Okay, it appears I was selecting the outside wall from the perspective view rather than the plan view. Selecting it in Plan view results in being able to add the boxed eves. And selecting Flat rather than Sloping does make the bottom of the soffit parallel with the ground, which I want. It still doesn't change the overhang of the non-gable sides though; they remain parallel with the roof top, rather than the ground. So that's the part I'm still missing, assuming it's possible.
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09-29-2013, 09:04 AM #7Registered User
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I'm looking at the Room Specification > Structure tab, which has things like "Use Soffit Surface for Ceiling", which I think I want (as long as it's parallel with the ground), and a bunch of other options, and dimensions, that aren't in the diagram to the right, and which don't seem to change things I can see. I have a feeling mastery of this screen may help me out, and I imagine I'll need it to make a cathedral ceiling design. Seems funny that if this Room screen changes anything to do with the Roof location, that it's changed on a per room basis. ???
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09-29-2013, 09:55 AM #8
I suffer from using Chief Premier every day, I was so sure I was "right" but I misled you and I apologize.
What I said is perfectly true if you use Chief Premier or Home Designer Pro, what I said is not true for Home Designer Architectural etc, just Pro and Premier.
I am sorry.
DJP
David Jefferson Potter
Chief Architect® Teacher, Tutor, Draftsman, Author of "Basic Manual Roof Editing" and Problem Solver
Chief Premier 7-16, Home Designer 7-2014 All Titles
Win7 Ultimate x64 & XP Pro x32 500 gb Samsung SSD
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T, 8Gb DDR3 RAM, PNY 760 GTX
3101 Shoreline Drive #2118, Austin, Texas 78728-6929
Office Phone:512-518-3161
Main E mail: david@djpdesigns.net
Web Site:http://djpdesigns.net
My You Tube Channel Follow me on Facebook
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09-29-2013, 06:03 PM #9Registered User
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No problem. I am very surprised, though, that a $200 product does not include what I consider some very basic options or features. As I said, every other program I've used (Punch, etc.) have allowed far more flexibility in the roof area that seems to be available. I was really going for the $100 product, but thought by going to Architectural, I'd be sure to have everything I needed. Oh well.
I still think there's something to be found in the room roof settings that may help me, but I haven't deciphered it all yet. ;-)
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09-29-2013, 09:54 PM #10Registered User
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I think it's a difficult situation from the standpoint as neither method is perfect(or at least perfectly easy) for what he is trying to do..
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09-30-2013, 06:32 AM #11
you can use the "Soffit Tool" (cabinet tools) and manually locate a soffit under the roof eaves and then elongate it to fill the eaves, not elegant but workable, try it.
DJP
David Jefferson Potter
Chief Architect® Teacher, Tutor, Draftsman, Author of "Basic Manual Roof Editing" and Problem Solver
Chief Premier 7-16, Home Designer 7-2014 All Titles
Win7 Ultimate x64 & XP Pro x32 500 gb Samsung SSD
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T, 8Gb DDR3 RAM, PNY 760 GTX
3101 Shoreline Drive #2118, Austin, Texas 78728-6929
Office Phone:512-518-3161
Main E mail: david@djpdesigns.net
Web Site:http://djpdesigns.net
My You Tube Channel Follow me on Facebook
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09-30-2013, 06:03 PM #12Registered User
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Yeah, I was thinking that might work. But it will probably look funny from the outside, as the soffit will actually be lower than the ceiling of the house, instead of higher, like every house I'm looking at is.
So, let me get this straight, though: Except for Home Designer Pro, the $500 version, all roofs are composed of single 2x6's (or thereabouts), with no bracing or trussing, and cannot be controlled as to thickness or construction? And if you want a cathedral ceiling, it will be right up against the 2x6's, making an entirely unbuildable structure?
If I make a second floor (despite the fact that this is a 1 story house), could I then extend the rafters a foot outside of the first floor, making a flat overhang, then have a zero height wall, with the roof coming down to the rafters? Basically, fool the program into putting reasonable size rafters in and getting the flat soffit extensions? Of course, that might spoil the cathedral ceilings.... Boy, I don't know, this is a mess in this area.
Can someone suggest a reasonably priced home design program that allows this? I know my old copy of Punch did, and even the program, whose name I forget, that I used about 15 years ago.
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10-01-2013, 06:05 AM #13Registered User
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Actually, it turns out that a Sloped Soffit works out great as a cathedral ceiling. It has the advantage of being placed at exactly the heights and slopes that you want it to be, and is not tied to the roof in any way, like the recommended way of doing a soffit. And it's far easier to get right. So at least that problem is solved.
And yes, soffits work out fine when added manually to the outside of a building to give me the level soffit I'm looking for.