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  1. #1
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    actual stair measurements

    If I create a 42" "Sec Width" set of staris, what is the actual width of the stair?

    Assuming each stinger is 2" thick and the stair tread goes into the stringer 1", then the actual stair tread is 40" wide and 38" is actual visable?

    I would buy a 40" long board?

    Mike
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    Home Designer Pro 8.0 (since 04/28/08)

  2. #2
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    Thart would really be considered the "tread"

    2" stringers will be hard to come by unless you have them made. 1-1/2" would be typical.

    Yeah, but buying 40" boards cut to length will probably be expensive.

    Probably better of getting an 8' piece and cutting it yourself.
    Last edited by daydreamer; 03-12-2008 at 01:51 PM.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by daydreamer
    Thart would really be considered the "tread"
    So that exposed piece I can see is the tread?

    2" stringers will be hard to come by unless you have them made. 1-1/2" would be typical.
    Our existing house has 2" oak stringers, 1 1/2" + 1/2" = 2", and I am not sure how far the treads are into the stringers.

    I am just trying to understand what exactly is created by the stair tools.

    An example, (assume the stringers are 2")...

    If I have a 42" wide staircase that has real walls, then 42" stairs would actually actually be 38" threads. But, if there are no physical walls, the treads would be 42"?

    That is why the Staircase Specification dbx says "Sec Width" instead of tread width... right?

    Mike
    Last edited by flinchlock; 03-12-2008 at 05:04 PM.
    Home Designer Pro 8.0 (since 04/28/08)

  4. #4
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    Yes the exposed piece is the tread.

    The reason I mentioned the 2" was that typically a two by is 1-1/2" and a one by is 3/4". Plywood or planed lumber would be used to get something 1/2" thick.

    Actually I think the treads would be 42" because they usually sit on top of the stringer. (see attached stringer)

    No the section width is the tread width.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by daydreamer
    Yes the exposed piece is the tread.
    GREAT

    The reason I mentioned the 2" was that typically a two by is 1-1/2" and a one by is 3/4". Plywood or planed lumber would be used to get something 1/2" thick.
    Yup, been there, done that... understand.

    Actually I think the treads would be 42" because they usually sit on top of the stringer. (see attached stringer)

    No the section width is the tread width.
    What about if "Closed Sides" is checked?

    Mike

    P.S. Please be patient with me, I am not trying to be a PITA, I have a built-in need to understand stuff.
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  6. #6
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    Mike,

    Click Tools and then on Material list then on Calculate From all Floors. You will see what the program is calculating.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by daydreamer
    Click Tools and then on Material list then on Calculate From all Floors. You will see what the program is calculating.
    COOL!

    It says "44x11 5/16-1"" even though the Stair Specifications dbx says 42".

    THANKS,
    Mike

    P.S. I think I have asked enough about this.
    Home Designer Pro 8.0 (since 04/28/08)

  8. #8
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    You're welcome...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Central SW Ontario Canada
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    Hardwood and all wood originally is cut to 4/4, 5/4 and 8/4 (four quarters, five quarters and eight quarters). This is rough lumber, after drying and need to be planed. This determines how thick a finished product you will get.

    If I intended to make my own staircase I would peobably laminate a 5/4 and a 4/4 piece of oak together. These would give me about 1" and 3/4". I would cut all the treads and risers into the 3/4 piece and then glue and screw them to the 1" pieces with the grain opposite ways to help eliminate warping and make the insets easily done.

    This would give me a finished stringer of 1.75", have more stability than a single piece and be easier to cut out then so much router work.

    OTOH, I would go to a staircase maker because they make the insets wedged and glue wedges into them to keep it all tight and avoid squeaking. They also have the wood available and mistakes are paid for by them.
    BH&G Pro Rev. 7.08
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    I built a house using this and am still find it Mickey Mouse quality.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Central SW Ontario Canada
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    One point (for newbie)

    The backclipped view: This will give you a slice of the house from wherever you start the arrow line to wherever you stop with the arrowhead. This is idea for zooming in on detailed crosssections like you want for this.
    BH&G Pro Rev. 7.08
    Central SW Ontario, Canada
    -AMD AthlonX2 4400, 2GB, Win XP Pro
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    I built a house using this and am still find it Mickey Mouse quality.

  11. #11
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    Augusta MI
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    Stair Angle Based On Rise and Run

    I found this interesting chart about Stair Angle Based On Rise and Run...

    http://www.bestdecksite.com/introStairsPg2.htm

    Mike
    Home Designer Pro 8.0 (since 04/28/08)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Phx AZ (Moving to Whidbey Island WA)
    Posts
    20

    Decks and lots of other goodies

    Found other interesting links and tools. Nice reference. Thanks.
    Last edited by billgilbert; 03-20-2008 at 09:44 AM. Reason: misspell

  13. #13
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    Last edited by flinchlock; 03-21-2008 at 06:37 AM.
    Home Designer Pro 8.0 (since 04/28/08)

  14. #14
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    http://www.sizes.com/home/stairs.htm

    "Among American architects, an old rule-of-thumb is that the sum of the unit rise and the unit run should be about 17½″. Common practice has been to make the unit rise about 7½ inches, the unit run 9″ for interiors and 11″ for exteriors."

    Mike
    Last edited by flinchlock; 03-22-2008 at 03:07 AM.
    Home Designer Pro 8.0 (since 04/28/08)

  15. #15
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    So much for rule of thumb...

 

 

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